My Trek to Banyumala: Finding Bali's Most Rewarding Swimming Hole
If you ask me which waterfall is actually worth the long drive into the northern highlands of Bali, my answer is always Banyumala. I still remember the first time I made the trip up past Bedugul. You leave the coastal humidity completely behind and climb into the cool, misty air of Wanagiri. A lot of travelers get lazy about driving this far north, but honestly, that is a massive mistake. Standing at the base of this place feels like stepping straight into a movie set, and unlike a lot of other spots on the island, you can actually jump in and swim for hours.
The adventure starts before you even reach the ticket booth. The last stretch of the road is pretty bumpy and narrow, so we had to take it slow on our scooters. After paying the 50,000 IDR entry fee—which nicely includes a small bottle of water—we started the walk down. I found the trail to be a really pleasant surprise. The locals have carved out a solid path with bamboo handrails and wooden steps through the jungle. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to get to the bottom, and while your knees will definitely feel it, the dense canopy keeps you covered from the burning sun.
The Massive Twin Plunge
The moment you step onto the clearing at the bottom, your jaw will probably drop. I know mine did. Banyumala is not just one stream of water; it is a massive, wide rock wall where two main torrents and dozens of smaller springs cascade down into a giant natural plunge pool. The water is so clean and clear that you can see right to the gravelly bottom. There is a beautiful, rustic bamboo bridge built right across the stream, which is where everyone stops to take a photo, but the real magic is just getting into that water.
I wasted zero time dropping my backpack on a dry rock and jumping in. I have to warn you: the water is absolutely freezing because it flows straight down from the mountain springs. But once you get over the initial shock, it is incredibly refreshing. The pool is deep enough to actually swim around properly, and you can wade right up to the mossy rocks where the gentle mist hits your face. We ended up staying down there for almost two hours, just floating around and watching the clouds roll over the top of the cliff.
Survival Tips for the Climb Back
When you are done swimming, remember that what goes down must come up. The hike back up those steps can be a real lung-burner. If you are feeling completely wiped out, there is a cool new option where local guys on dirt bikes offer a "scooter taxi" ride from the bottom trail back to the main parking lot for about 25,000 IDR. I decided to tough it out and walk, but I definitely treated myself to a fresh local juice at the parking lot cafe afterward. If you want a real jungle experience that feels world's away from the south, make the time for this one.
Yes, absolutely! This is one of the best swimming waterfalls in Bali. The pool at the bottom is large, clean, and deep enough to swim in, though the mountain water is quite cold.
The path is well-maintained with steps and bamboo railings, but it is steep in some sections and can be slippery after rain. Kids can handle it with supervision, but it might be tough for anyone with severe knee or mobility issues.
The ticket costs 50,000 IDR per person for international visitors, and it actually includes a small complimentary bottle of drinking water which you can collect at the start of the trail.
It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours by car or scooter from Ubud, and closer to 2.5 hours from Canggu. Because the mountain roads are steep and winding, many travelers prefer hiring a private driver for the day.
There are basic toilet facilities near the bottom of the trail where you can change into your swimwear, but they are very simple, so I recommend wearing your swimsuit under your clothes if possible.
